Got curls? Here’s your ultimate haircut guide. Learn what to ask your stylist, what to avoid, and how to nail a cut that works with your natural texture.
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Haircut regret? We don't know her!
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Booking in for dry curly cuts – which several salons specialise in – can help with definition and give you a more balanced overall silhouette. “I prefer to cut curls dry, as when cutting wet, the shrinkage can sometimes be underestimated, which can lead to the finished style being much shorter than intended or uneven layers,” says Dionne Smith, professional hairstylist and Cosmopolitan Contributing Hair Expert. “Shrinkage can be between 20–70 per cent, depending on curl texture, so it’s not always easy to gauge. I would always recommend dry cutting in its natural state, where you can see the real curl, shape and length.”
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Sharp, blunt cuts look great, but may not be the best choice for curly textures. “Another thing I find is best to avoid when cutting curly hair is very straight, precision, one-length cuts,” says Michelle. “Instead, I choose to layer the shape to help the curls fall correctly on top of each other and to provide proportion and shape to each haircut.”
Dione agrees: “As curls and coils shrink and change at different rates, this can sometimes look very boxy and heavy at the bottom, and that straight line can look like an uneven not so not-so-well-done finish. I would recommend cutting the hair dry, curl by curl, to remove bulk so you can actively see the shape/silhouette you're achieving as you go.”
Michelle also says a curl-by-curl is a great way to go. “Some people may disagree, however, I find it works fine for me to cut the hair once it’s been smoothed out or delicately straightened,” she adds. “I do this mostly with the BaByliss Air Wand with the pik attachment, then I’m able to see what needs to be trimmed, because I have a clear idea of the shape. However, this can only be done by someone very experienced in cutting hair of all textures.”
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Keeping layers longer is best on tighter coils for the definition and shape of the overall style, rather than opting for lots of short and choppy ones. “When the layers are too short [on tight coils], it can look puffy, uneven and very disconnected,” Michelle explains. “I would always recommend longer, graduated layers that maintain cohesion while enhancing the coil pattern.”
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This is a controversial one; when used correctly, thinning scissors and razor cutting can create great haircuts, but they also have the power to do a lot of damage – something commonly seen when they’re on curly hair textures.
“I have been told by many clients over the years that they’ve gone to salons where they’ve had their hair thinned out using thinning scissors or razors,” says Michelle. “These are two techniques I would never, ever use on curly hair, as they definitely don’t work well. I know that some hairdressers have used them to reduce volume in curly hair; however, a haircut done correctly should always provide the right proportion and shape at all times, whether the hair is worn curly or straight.”
Dionne agrees and says she doesn’t recommend either technique. “I have never been fond of razor cutting on curls and coils as it can fray the cuticles of the hair, making it frizzier and creating split ends, and can also disrupt the curl pattern.” Instead, she recommends “slide cutting or point cutting [the techniques you most usually see hairdressers using, FYI] with a quality pair of sharp scissors is best for curls and coils, as this softens and keeps the curls’ integrity.”
All noted? Now you're curls are ready to hit the salon chair!
